May 9, 2021

Valentino RTW Spring 2018

A fashion editor exiting the Valentino show needed a moment; rapture recovery takes time. When she got enough of a grip to regain verbal capacity, she offered, “I want to live on that planet.” The vibe in the courtyard of the Lycée Carnot, where Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his spring collection, suggested she wouldn’t be lonely.
For years now, Piccioli has produced some of fashion’s most extraordinary work, first in partnership with Maria Grazia Chiuri and now, on his own. Piccioli’s spring collection was out-of-this world magnificent.
At the risk of prolonging the planetary motif, the editor’s reference was more salient than she realized; featured on Piccioli’s mood board this season, along with pictures of the glamorous teenaged Brooke Shields and depictions of “The Frenzy of Orlando,” was a photograph taken by astronaut William Alison Anders during the Apollo 8 mission, the first to reach and orbit the moon. (OK, you Galileos out there, the moon’s not a planet. But it is up there — fashion license.)
During a preview, Piccioli talked about the moon as a physical place, but also “where you can find what’s lost in the heart, this romantic idea of the moon, the moon as a second chance.” Schmaltz? Maybe. But what’s “schmaltz”

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