November 23, 2020

Roberto Cavalli RTW Spring 2018

From the spare, open-air venue at Parco Sempione to the self-effacing new creative director Paul Surridge and a collection that murmured rather than roared, it’s clear the ground is shifting under the house of Roberto Cavalli.
With a restructuring just completed under chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris and the naming of Surridge — a men’s wear designer and unlikely pick — Cavalli has downsized, broken with its leopard and sparkle-studded past, and positioned itself for growth.
Named to the post in May, Surridge has been racing against the clock, pulling the collection together in eight weeks. He’s shifted the focus away from eveningwear, redefined Cavalli’s brand of sexy as athletic and wholesome, and aimed to broaden the brand’s appeal far beyond the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills and the haute hippies of Ibiza.
His opening look, a demure navy dress with cutouts that revealed strong shoulders, spoke volumes, as did the pointy slippers on the model’s feet. “Flats convey agility and speed,” he told WWD earlier this week.
Backstage before the show, Surridge called Cavalli a “local brand with a global audience” and vowed to offer his customer clothing that would take her from day to night. “She has a life, she’s a modern working woman. It’s a collection for

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