November 27, 2020

Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2018

Genuine provocation — there’s not enough of it in fashion. Raf Simons is determined to show us what we’ve been missing. He arrived at 205 West 39th Street, Calvin Klein’s longtime address and recently renamed, at his behest, Collection label, determined to tackle large questions of cultural resonance via the fashion genre. After two collections, it’s clear that Simons’ approach is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture, whether out of respect, curiosity or a yen to telegraph to skeptics (if any exist), his appropriateness for the creative helm of one of the great bastions of American fashion.
On Thursday night, the room was abuzz. Guests milled about, some in states of anticipatory glee, others in confused pursuit of their seats, as numerous tablet-wielding staffers had no clue about the room’s alphabetical arrangement. “Do you know where D is?” one guest asked a third floor guide. The answer: “No, but I’ll try to find it.”
Hence, a prolonged stroll under Sterling Ruby’s latest collaboration with Simons, the rafters now hung with colorful, exaggerated pompoms and banners representing the cheery high school life, but with grim sightings — an axe here or there — interrupting the frivolity. Sinister forces have a way of infiltrating

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