May 13, 2021

Serpent’s Tale: Nicholas Kirkwood Refashions a Signature Bulgari Bag

LONDON — Nicholas Kirkwood has taken his first shot at designing handbags in a collaboration with Bulgari that saw him reinterpret the jeweler’s Serpenti Forever design.
The capsule collection of bags — which includes a rucksack — will make its retail debut on Sept. 1 at stores including Net-a-porter, Printemps, Boon the Shop and Saks Fifth Avenue.
The designer said he wanted to give the Serpenti a contemporary feel. “I kept thinking about London when designing it and the feminine irreverence of its residents that inspires my own designs.”
​​​​​​​​He said he changed the bag’s proportions and tweaked a number of details, including the size and weight of the chain, which he made heavier and longer for “London attitude.” He moved the ceramic snakehead clasp lower at the front and straightened the bags’ edges and turned the lid into a flap that was inspired by a Bulgari jewelry piece. The studs — a Kirkwood signature — have faceted sides that are made to resemble jewels.
“I get really nerdy about how things are made, and really delved into the process,” said Kirkwood. He was struck by how “quiet and serene” the Bulgari handbag factory in Florence, Italy was compared to his footwear ones in the Veneto, which vibrate

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