May 12, 2021

GmbH Men’s Spring 2018

In this solid evolution of the fledgling label’s club-meets-street-meets-workwear aesthetic, cofounders Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik paid homage to their fathers and “their sense of dressing coming to Europe as immigrants, the sense of pride they had dressing up, in a very kind of particular way.”
It led to a bulked up shirting and tailoring quotient, including fitted wool jackets and high-waisted pants with double pleats.
The colors and textures, said Huseby backstage, were inspired by “what men of Middle Eastern or Arab heritage might be drawn to,” with a lot of gold and silver gilding and materials “bordering on tacky.”
The designers introduced their first jean, based on a variation of last season’s German corduroy carpenter trousers. Other standouts included a denim jacket with a biker fit — tight at the waist and broad at the shoulders – “inspired by how Turkish teenagers dress.”
The label’s way of blending cultures and regurgitating references felt relevant with the line very much anchored in the now. Notably the cool, craft-intensive collage ribbed T-shirts silk-printed with gold and silver, and the parkas built from Helly Hansen bags will resonate with the Berlin-based cooperative’s international posse. (They include friend of the house Stefano Pilati, who attended the show.)

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