October 26, 2020
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Dirk Bikkembergs Men’s Spring 2018

The brand’s new creative director Lee Wood picked up the thread of conversation he began for fall/winter 2018, minting minimal suits and sportswear with a masculine, workwear aesthetic.
He looked to the rough edges and repeating patterns of Brutalist architecture, and made his mantra “functionality over adornment,” arguing that men shouldn’t be perfect or pretty.
Despite the stark industrial vibe, the collection had a certain elegance and lightness: The first look down the runway was a navy chintz linen suit with off-kilter buttons and trousers with cargo pockets. Breezy knits came with ladder stitching, artfully placed tears or bits of leather.
There were narrow denim trousers with high upturned cuffs and over-stitched seams, a few sweeping drawstring coats with patch pockets, and more of those snappy dark linen suits with single or multiple off-center buttons.
Aside from some weird styling – short athletic shorts paired with tailored jackets – and the odd pop of bright green on shirts and jackets, Wood’s second collection was a sensible outing that should get buyers’ pens rolling.
More From Milan Men’s Spring / Summer 2018 Collections:

Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could

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