January 26, 2021

Hugo Men’s Spring 2018

It was the brand’s first show in six years, but the delivery — presented at night on a tile-print runway in the courtyard of an old factory in Florence, overlooked by a tree filled with glowing lanterns — looked fresh.
Bart De Backer embraced a youthful aesthetic with his run of effortlessly cool, oversize silhouettes, opening with a range of white-on-white looks. Roomy double-breasted suits were layered over elongated striped shirts and arty T-shirts printed with Jean-Michel Basquiat-esque motifs in splashy brights including Hugo Red. They enhanced the hip street vibe of the lineup, and the Nineties grunge flavor embodied by the overalls, baggies, chunky sneakers and striped knits lined with rows of silver rings.
Elevating the urban collection, a striped pajama suit paired with a lightweight trench with shirt-button details down the back exuded effortless elegance.
The women’s section — hooked on long slipdresses, oversize outerwear and relaxed inside-out pants — felt a little out of sync, with Basquiat prints applied to sheer hand-painted organza dresses losing a lot of the graphic impact. Clad in a blue tracksuit front row, the night’s entertainer, M.I.A., who shared her thoughts on the collection following the show, said she was also partial to the men’s.

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