From Vivienne Westwood’s gowns to hiking-wear chic and off-kilter corporatewear – irony ruled at the menswear shows
Scholars of Sex and the City will remember the wedding gown worn by Carrie Bradshaw in the first movie: a frou-frou, corseted Vivienne Westwood creation with an enormous layered skirt and sharply pointed neckline. That silhouette was pure 00s glamour – and it was back on the Westwood catwalk this weekend, worn by male models with Smurf-coloured hair and safety pins painted on to their bare chests. Westwood was far from the only designer subverting traditional ideas about frocks. At Edward Crutchley, beefy male models wore flowing Renaissance-style gowns displaying painted silver nipples; at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, the finale was an Elizabeth I-meets-Matisse moment; at Art School, a collective dedicated to gender-fluid fashion, models of all genders stalked the runway in fluttering false eyelashes and slinky skirts. It was, as the press release said, “a nonbinary paradise” on the catwalk.