January 24, 2021

Kiko Kostadinov Men’s Spring 2018

A dystopian mood hovered over Kiko Kostadinov’s collection, with the designer stating in his show notes that he wanted to conjure a “surreal drama of murderous transgression.” Hence, the utility details that the Bulgaria-born, London-based designer has toyed with in his past collections acquired a newly menacing air.
The models — with nylon stockings pulled over their heads, distorting their faces — wore boiler suits that recalled forensic attire, one high-necked in bright white, another with tailored lapels in searing lime green. There were also clinical-looking coats that evoked old-fashioned dentist’s uniforms, cut close to the body and with two rows of silver buttons down the bib.
This collection’s sinister aspect certainly made for a striking show, but the standout of the outing was Kostadinov’s evolution from the loose, workwear-inspired shapes he’s focused on thus far into slick, tailored territory. Among the designer’s more sartorial creations were jackets that defined the waist, paired with slim pants, along with a precisely cut shorts suit, whose jacket had pouffy, Victorian-looking shoulders. Those looks had a severe appeal, and took Kostadinov’s label on a newly sleek path.
See More From the London 2018 Men’s Spring Collections:
Stella McCartney Screens Men’s Wear Short Film at 16th-century Pub: Steven Tyler, Steve

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